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Home > Archive > Dentistry > February 2005 > Post your favorite pulp cap material
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Post your favorite pulp cap material
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| The Real Paul 2005-02-09, 3:08 pm |
| I'm looking at changing from Vitrebond to Fuji Lining LC
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I got teeth
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| On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 14:15:38 GMT, "The Real Paul" <no@no.no> wrote:
>I'm looking at changing from Vitrebond to Fuji Lining LC
Indirect, don't use any.
Mechanical exposure --> MTA
Pathologic exposure --> endo
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W_B
Take out the G'RBAGE
wubbabubbazG@RBAGEyahoo.com
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| Steven Fawks 2005-02-09, 3:08 pm |
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I've had poor results with any pulp capping attempts over the
last 25 years. (Dycal, glass ionomer cement, Vitrebond, etc.)
I've tried bonding right over the top with conventional
total etch systems with equal results (mostly bad!).
I've done a very limited number over the last year with
Clearfil SE Bond which seems to be much better.
So, basically I don't hold out much hope for pulp caps,
but if I felt one was really indicated, I would use SE
Bond.
JME,
Fawks
The Real Paul wrote:
> I'm looking at changing from Vitrebond to Fuji Lining LC
>
> --
> I got teeth
>
>
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| The Real Paul 2005-02-09, 3:08 pm |
| Thanks for the feedback - I understand that direct pc's are temporary at
best and indirect pc's worth is questionable. I want though to have a better
handling material than the Vitrebond. I place it after etching and prior to
bonding but it sometimes works its way off the prep and I have to place it
again. I wonder if the Fuji LC handles any better?
"Steven Fawks" <tuthjockey@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:ga7Od.3160$UX3.1131@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net...
>
>
> I've had poor results with any pulp capping attempts over the
> last 25 years. (Dycal, glass ionomer cement, Vitrebond, etc.)
>
> I've tried bonding right over the top with conventional
> total etch systems with equal results (mostly bad!).
>
> I've done a very limited number over the last year with
> Clearfil SE Bond which seems to be much better.
>
> So, basically I don't hold out much hope for pulp caps,
> but if I felt one was really indicated, I would use SE
> Bond.
>
> JME,
> Fawks
>
> The Real Paul wrote:
>
>
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| StovePipe 2005-02-15, 8:21 am |
| The Real Paul <no@no.no> wrote:
> Thanks for the feedback - I understand that direct pc's are temporary at
> best and indirect pc's worth is questionable. I want though to have a better
> handling material than the Vitrebond. I place it after etching and prior to
> bonding but it sometimes works its way off the prep and I have to place it
> again. I wonder if the Fuji LC handles any better?
>
>
Howdy, gang... long time, no see... (I was thrown in jail in the alpha
centuri nebulous asteroid belt for trying to mine Amalgam material...)
FWIW, Fuji II LC, in my hands, is no better than any other glass ionomer
material, but mixes easier. You can get it either in traditional
powder/liquid or a cartridge similar to Geristore (two tubes of material
together like a shot gun). This fits in a metal 'clicker' type pliers
thing that expresses it onto your mixing pad. These two thick liquids
mix together really easily, and they are already in the right
proportions. All you have to do is slide a plastic sleeve on the
'clicker' and this controls how much gunk you put on your pad.
Now for the hard part.
I usually put it into a manual loading Centrix compule and use that to
inject it where I want it. These compules are orange colored (presumably
to protect composite from ambient light) and the tips are large lumen
(I'd say about 20 guague) bendable metal. I usually pre-snip about half
the metal tip off, as it cuts down on your material usage. I scoop up
the mixed material like you scoop impression material into a Monoject
impression syringe, and place a pointed plunger at the back of the
compule. I place ANOTHER plunger that has had the pointed tip cut off
behind the first plunger. This is to make sure all the material is
squeezed out into the tooth. Snap this in to your OLD Centrix composite
gun, and you're away. This is the ONLY way I could get it to flow into
an upper tooth with any semblance of control. It is a bit wasteful, as
there is some left in the Centrix compule tip, but if you've cut that
down to only what you need, there's not that much waste. This is also
the reason for using TWO plungers and an OLD Centrix gun. These guns
work by having a metal plunger push into the compule and express the
material out the spout. With the OLDER guns this metal plunger shaft is
LONGER, so it goes farther into the compule.
So there ya go.... If you need info on those Centrix manual loading
compules, I can find that out this coming week.
HTH
SP
--
Not a real Addy, yet
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